Crossing into Peru near the coast was like entering India. Hoards of Tuk-Tuks bumping over potholes, donkeys carrying water crates, loads of trash along the streets and a distinctive stinky smell in the air. For two days the road lead through this landscape in Northern Peru – passing towns with an apocalyptic eerie feeling, bumping over potholes and missing open manhole covers in the streets.
Arriving at the coast after 500 km the town of Playa Malabrigo was pretty run down too and the beach was not inviting, due to all the rubbish and dead animals lying around. Checking into our hotel at the end of the beach we peered around the corner and were amazed to see a vast open desert, lined by hills in the far distance. Once more the luggage was flung of the bikes and we ventured out in the sandy playground. Basil managed to do a Superman stunt flying over a sand dune and not falling off but bending his handlebars. Kate decided to bury her bike in the sand a few times – and Flo trying to beat Basil’s tallest climb on a dune.
Heading away from the coast over vast desert landscape, the Andes of Peru appeared on the horizon. Entering the mountains the road lead through the Canon del Pato, with a steep drop down into the Rio Santa passing through numerous pitch-black tunnels cut into the mountain side. For the first time in ages we wild-camped next to the river in the Canyon!
Riding out of the Canyon the next day we approached the Huascarán National Park, with the snow-capped Mount Huascaran, many glaciers and lagoons – and a mountain pass leading up to 4’800 m (check this!). The plan was to ride over one gravel pass, spend the night in a village in the valley and ride back over a tarmac pass further in the South the next day. It was already midday, clouds were hanging low and it was drizzling. Unsure whether to set out right away or wait until the next day, we asked a local guy how long it would take to get to this village. Only 2 hours he said – so we decided to get going straight away. The road turned into gravel and lead past an amazing turquoise lagoon. From there on rain set in, the road zig-zagged up the mountain side and gradually got muddier and muddier. Our progress slowed down, it started to snow and Kate started to feel dizzy due to the high elevation. We decided to focus and move on because it was getting dark – when suddenly Kates bike started to wobble around – was she soo dizzy? No – the back tire was flat. Quickly filling the tire with air and hoping it would last a while we pressed on. To add to all this Kates heated grips failed and her hands started to go numb, which did not help with the muddy riding conditions. After reaching the summit the road dropped down to 3’660 meters and after inflating the tire another four times we found a small homestay to spend the night. The family was charming with two lovely girls – one of them came running out and asked if we could be friends. Our mood lifted straight away, despite being wet and frozen cold to our bones.
