Since reading about this 1’300 kilometre stretch of road a couple of years ago the idea to ride along the railway from Tynda to Lake Baikal was stuck in our heads. This road was constructed to build the Baikal – Amur railway between 1930 – 1984 and some sections have not been maintained since. It is therefore known to be one of the toughest off-road adventures. Also it does get harder every year since bridges wash away and the road deteriorates into an abysmal state.
We left Tynda after Lunch a day earlier than planned. This was because a local guy helped us out with some desperately needed tires and we did not have to wait for the massively delayed Mitas C02 we ordered a month ago.
The first section of road to the town of Lopcha was easy gravel, but the road deteriorated into two track sooner than we had expected. This slowed our progress and the goal to ride to the town of Yuktali vanished as we had a flat tire as the sun began to set. As we started to look for a spot to put down the tent a bear crossed the road right in front of us. Having our way too close bear-encounters in Canada and the U.S in our heads, we decided to follow the railway a bit further to get some distance between us and the bear.
A couple of kilometres down the road we ran into our first big obstacle tough: a massive river with a washed away bridge. We had to cross the railway bridge, there was just no other way. After listening if any trains are coming and sending a small prayer towards heaven, we started the bikes and rode over the bridge as fast as we dared. Just as the sun went down we got lucky: on the other side of the tracks we spotted an abandoned railway shack which was already grown over by foliage. These things where built many years ago to house the workers along the railway. After moving some vodka bottles and spiders out of the way it was home for the night. Right by the river, with a small oven to spend warmth trough the night and absolutely bear safe it felt like paradise.
